The Mechanics of Teaching Multiple Marks

Start with your dog sitting at heel. He should wear his e-collar, a choke chain, and a check cord. Hold the check cord.

Imagine you are standing in the middle of a clock face, facing 12 o’clock. Before throwing, command “sit”, then cue your dog with “mark.” Throw one bumper to a target at 9 or 3 o’clock. Do not allow your dog to break his stay to turn toward the fall. Pause after the bumper is down. Then throw the second bumper to a target at your 12 o’clock position. Your dog doesn’t have to move his body — his head should return to look straight out for this second throw. After pausing, put your hand down, pause, and release him on his name to retrieve the last mark thrown. As he is returning, line yourself up facing the first bumper you threw. When your dog comes back to heel position he will be lined up on the memory mark. When he is seated, pause and take delivery of the first bumper. Make sure your dog is looking at the memory mark, put your hand down, pause, and release him on his name. When he returns, have him sit at heel. Pause before and after taking delivery of the bumper. Praise for a job well done.

Initially, if your dog fails to remember a memory mark, walk toward the fall with him, encouraging him to “find it.” If he consistently has trouble knowing where the memory mark is, make two adjustments. Throw the drill on short cover and shorten your throws. When your dog sits by your side to deliver the first retrieve, he must be able to see the second bumper.

With success, your dog’s confidence on, and memory of, the second and subsequent marks will steadily improve. As it does, gradually make the memory marks harder.

The pauses in the routine are important. Carpe Canis! Seize the dog! Although not proper Latin, it is sound training advice. Do not allow your dog to set the pace on the line. The pause after throwing each mark is especially important to prevent head swinging.

If, when your dog looks away as soon as a mark hits the ground, you turn and throw the next mark, you are rewarding head swinging. Dogs get better at the things they practice. Like most faults, head swinging is much easier to prevent than to correct. So, make your dog stay focused on each fall until you signal by your move to throw that he may move to watch the next throw.

Doing that crazy hand jive:

Always put your hand down on the first retrieve. This works as a set trigger and is a steadying device. He can never retrieve until he first sees your hand, and then hears a command. If he is sitting waiting for an audible command any sound may release him, but when he knows he must first see your hand he is more likely to wait for the right sound.

Later when you are sending for long retired marks you will put your hand down and send harder, for short retired marks use no hand and a softer send. As you throw more marks on the M & M drill begin to teach these same cues now.

Pat Nolan