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Teaching Casting -- A Key Skill Set for the Working
Retrievers
BY PAT NOLAN
Most of us do some introduction to casting early on during
work on force fetch. Now we want to teach a more formal
casting response and add whistle sit and e-collar corrections
for cast refusals. Don’t spend too long on this drill; a week
or so is plenty. Your dog will get casting practice the rest
of his life. He doesn’t need to be perfect before moving on.
Make sure he knows the casts and will accept correction for
refusals and you are ready to move on.
This drill teaches four basic casts: left
and right over, and left and right back. The sequence of steps
is as follows:
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Teach left and right over separately
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Cast over to a pile
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Alternate casting over with two piles out
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Teach the left and right back cast
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Put out all three piles and alternate casting
through each of the four casts
Left and
Right Over
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Checklist 4
Skills:
Basic Obedience
Force Fetch
Optional
E-collar conditioning
Equipment
Choke chain
E-collar
Long line
Leather gloves
12 small, white bumpers
Grounds
Use training area with short
cover so your dog can see bumpers on the ground from 15
feet |
Teach each cast individually. Start by
casting to a visible, thrown bumper.
Place your dog on a sit-stay. He should
be wearing his e-collar and a choke chain with a 15-foot line
attached to the live ring of the choke chain. Step off about
six feet in front and turn to face him. With your right hand,
toss one bumper to land 10 feet off your dog’s left shoulder.
Pause, and when your dog is looking at you, cast with your
right hand and command “fetch/over.” Praise for a good
retrieve; ear pinch correct for any refusals.
After each retrieve, move forward to
receive the bumper. Stand so when your dog returns to sit in
front for delivery he will be sitting on the spot from which
you first cast him. Encourage a straight sit in front, but do
not correct for a less-than-perfect sit. As your dog gains
experience on casting you can increase your requirements for a
straight sit. Work to get four or five good retrieves on the
right-hand cast.
Some dogs
take to this readily; if yours is one of these, you can
introduce the left over in the same session. If you need
numerous attempts to get four or five correction-free
retrieves on the right-hand cast, wait until the following
session to introduce the left-hand over.
To teach the
left over, with your dog in the remote sit position, toss the
bumper and cast with your left hand. For the first two
sessions, command, “fetch, over.” After the first two
sessions, your dog should have made the association between
“fetch” and “over” and you can drop the fetch command.
During this drill, hold your dog
accountable for stay. Now and later in the field, he cannot
take a cast he does not see. If your dog breaks to retrieve
before you send him, do not re-command sit. Use the line to
prevent him from retrieving and then with a series of short,
quick jerks on the line correct him back to where you first
placed him for the stay. With your last correction, give a
whistle sit command and a nick with the e-collar just as his
rump sits on the spot.
Often two sessions is sufficient exposure
to casting to move to the next step, but be sure your dog will
cast both left and right smoothly before moving on.
Casting
to a Pile
Place your dog on a sit-stay. Place four
bumpers about 10 feet off his left shoulder. Stand about six
feet in front as before and toss one bumper to the pile.
Pause, and when he is looking at you cast over. Walk forward
and receive the bumper. After praising him, flip the bumper
behind you. Leave him on a stay and step back. Now, cast him
to the pile for another.
The second and subsequent casts of this
set present an important difference to your dog. You are directing him to retrieve without the
excitement of the throw. For most dogs, this presents no
difficulty. Occasionally, a dog will refuse to retrieve
without the throw. You should ear pinch force to a bumper for
all refusals. Your cast is a command and not a release to
retrieve if he feels like it.
Some dogs will shop back and forth,
picking up each bumper in turn, delaying the retrieve. To
eliminate this, use a quick jerk on the line for failure to
return. If after this correction, your dog comes away empty
handed, ear-pinch back to a bumper. He will soon tire of this
game and choose one bumper when he gets to the pile.
After your dog has retrieved all the
bumpers from the right/over pile, replace the pile, this time
off his right shoulder and work on the left-hand cast. Again,
for the first cast to the left, identify or “mark” the pile by
throwing a bumper to it. Work through the left over pile just
as you did for the right.
Work one or two sessions as needed so
that your dog will cast left and right to retrieve from a pile
without you marking the pile for every retrieve.
Two Piles, Alternate Casting
Put out both over piles at the same time,
with four bumpers in each pile. Place your dog on a sit-stay
between the piles and facing you. Begin just as before, by
throwing and casting to the right-hand pile. Now, instead of
tossing the retrieved bumper behind you, return it to the pile
it came from and cast to the opposite pile. Instead of
retrieving all the bumpers from one side before changing
casts, you will alternate casting right and left. This is an
important difference. Work through until your dog has made
five retrieves from each pile.
This step presents two changes for your dog. Until now, you
have always thrown and cast the same direction. Here you are
casting away from the thrown bumper. In addition, this is the
first time he has had a choice of directions. If your dog
tries to retrieve from the wrong pile, whistle sit and cast
again. Accept this as an error and not disobedience.
However, the newness of the situation does not negate your
dog’s responsibility to retrieve; if he refuses to retrieve
when cast, ear pinch force to the correct pile.
Two or three sessions are usually enough
to accustom your dog to alternate casting with two piles out.
However, before moving on to the next step, make sure your dog
is waiting for your command to retrieve, casting in the
direction you choose, and that he picks up as soon as he gets
to the pile.
Left and Right Back Cast
Place your dog in front on a sit-stay but
angle the dog to your right. He will not be facing you
directly but facing your five o’clock position. Toss a bumper
with your right hand past his left side to land 10 feet behind
him at twelve o’clock. Cast right-hand back and command
fetch/back. Praise for retrieving, and correct for refusals.
Cast four or five times. If all goes well, introduce the left
back cast. Sit the dog in front and angle him to the left.
This time he should be facing your seven o’clock position.
With your left hand, toss the bumper past his right side to
land at the twelve o’clock position. Cast left-hand back and
command fetch/back. By offsetting the dog to the side you plan
to cast, you are making it easier for the dog to turn the
correct way. At this point he doesn’t know to turn left and
right back in response to command, so do not correct if he
turns the wrong way. Instead, whistle sit and recast.
When he can cast “back” turning both
right and left, drop the fetch command and just say “back.”
Begin to place the dog straighter. Eventually you will sit him
facing you directly and cast for either left or right back.
Three Piles
Now that your dog can do all positions,
left and right over, and left and right back, put all three
piles out at once. Alternate casting through each of the four
casts. After each retrieve, return each bumper to the pile it
came from. In the beginning, follow each over with the
opposite back cast. This way you are casting your dog away
from the temptation of returning to the pile he has just
retrieved from. When he has more experience casting with all
three piles out, teach the inside cast; that is, follow the
left over with a left back, the right over with the right
back.
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Troubleshooting: The Dog that Comes to Heel When Cast
Q.
My dog casts well to the right, but on the
left cast he returns to heel when I cast him. What do I
do?
A.
Dogs naturally cast better one direction than the other.
For the dog that comes to heel when cast, ear pinch to the
bumper for failure to retrieve. Then, make two
adjustments. Step farther away from your dog and toss the
bumper closer to him. By both increasing the distance the
dog is from the handler and shortening the distance from
the dog to the bumper, you make it easier for the dog to
retrieve than to come to heel. Once he moves to retrieve a
few times you can return to your original position. |
Indirect Pressure
Until now we have used the e-collar to
apply “direct” pressure: a whistle sit and nick for failure to
sit, and here-nick-here for failure to come when called. We
can also use the e-collar to apply “indirect” pressure by
correcting or forcing on one command to improve performance on
another.
To apply indirect pressure for cast
refusals, whistle sit your dog. If needed, call in to
reposition, whistle sit, nick with the e-collar, and whistle
sit again. Then recast.
This works on three levels to improve
casting response. First, the dog is unsuccessful in his choice
of response. Dogs will eventually eliminate behavior that does
not bring reward. Second, the e-collar nick is an unpleasant
result of the inappropriate response. Dogs will eventually
eliminate behavior that results in discomfort. Finally, dogs
can generalize information; improvement in the dog’s
performance on any command carries over to other commands. A
key goal of our basic training is to teach this concept:
obedience to command brings a positive outcome.
This indirect pressure on whistle sit is
the primary correction we will use for cast refusals
throughout the dog’s training in the field. The requirement
that your dog sit on the nick is not new and should pose no
problems for him. But, be diligent here. Some dogs will try to
jump to retrieve in response to the nick or run in on the
nick. For you to correct with the e-collar now and later in
the field, your dog must sit on the nick. For any
inappropriate response, step in and use the line to force the
correct response, repeat the sit whistle, and nick with the
e-collar.
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Troubleshooting: The Dog that Won’t Look at You
Q.
My dog will not look at me after I toss the
bumper. He sits staring at the bumper.
A.
Generally, once he understands that he cannot retrieve
until you cast him, he will begin to watch you. As an aid
in teaching him to look, sometimes a soft “sit” whistle
will get a dog’s attention. Or, give a little tug or flip
on the line to get him to look at you. It is important
from the start that you not cast until he looks at you —
do not reward his looking away. Once you add in more than
one choice, most dogs will watch for your signal without
these teaching aids. However, an occasional dog will
refuse to look at the handler, either fixed on their
favorite pile or hoping that if they do not look they will
not have to retrieve. When you have made an effort using
the teaching aids and feel that your dog is just refusing
to watch, it is time to correct. Place your dog on a
sit-stay as before and put out both your right and left
over piles. This time when you cast, use a silent cast
opposite the direction your dog is staring. If your dog
does not move to retrieve on the cast, ear pinch force
to a bumper in the correct pile. Very quickly most dogs
accept that you are transmitting information that is
important to them and they will begin to watch. |
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